It is about 450 kilometres from Dehli to Pushkar, a drive that will take 7 – 8 hours on Indian roads in Indian speed. We depart from Dehli around 8 and drive into the morning rush through the blend of morning dew, smog and mixed smells of incense, and the characteristic smell of various curry dishes being cooked. The driver appears calm and awake, he drives safely through the traffic, which for us from the well-arranged world seems totally chaotic. Not only are they driving on the left side of unmarked roads, but every possible means of transport are mixed together. No road signs or red or green lights. The Tuk-tuks swarm like eager wasps, and find their way through everywhere. Cars, worn buses, overfilled lorries, ox carts and camels move around like blood corpuscles in a vein between villages – while the roadside is full of activity. The impressions rush into all the senses. We get onto the highway towards Bombay, there are separate lanes here, and it seems safer. But there are lots of rebuilds here, and it all appears very unfinished. Decorated lorries everywhere, it all looks more organic than in the West.
We arrive at Pushkar at 17, the sun is already setting and will disappear at around 19. Night comes quickly in India. As we did a year ago, we check in at Pushkar Lake Palace Hotel, a place with a fabulous view over the well-known Pushkar Lake, which is surrounded by temples. Pushkar is the only place in India where there is a temple dedicated to the greatest god of all, Brahma.
We travel to our friends, who live in the desert just outside Pushkar. We now get to see the house the family has built since we have been away. When they built it, it was supposed to be larger, but the government came and torn down half of the house. Anyhow the house have provided the family with safety and better protection when the weather is at it’s worst. In Pushkar it can get close to 50 degrees during the summer, and there are periods of heavy rain. The family consists of the mother and the father, 7 boys and a girl at the age of ten. There is a new member of the family now, Oscar the camel. It is nine months old, but is already a big camel. My friend bought it at the camel market. The camel market is a yearly event in Pushkar, and takes place in November. Often there are as many as 200 000 people and 30 000 camels coming to the market. This year it was raining during the whole event, and several camels froze to death.
Sadhu is the one we have most contact with, he is 17 years old and is a vigilant and present young man. He stays with us at the hotel while we are in Pushkar. There is electricity, lighting, TV and the rest. And a bed with bed sheets, a luxury compared to the house in the desert.
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